Surfing - West Dale | Session Log

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Forces-of-Nature » Personal Diaries » Surfing - West Dale

April so far in the Forces-of-Nature Diaries
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Owner: markh
Member

Member#: 42
Location: London
Registered: 15-08-2002
Diary Entries: 12

27th August 2003
Surfing: West Dale
Wind Direction: Offshore
Wind Stength: 2-3
Surf / Sea State: Mast high!
Air Temperature:
Sea Temperature:
Weather:
Max Speed:
Distance Covered:

Weird day!

West Dale beach is a small u-shaped beach that funnels in and exaggerates whatever swell is going on - particularly at low tide. My bro-in-law Dan and I had spotted it building up to a few feet so paddled out there thinking we'd get a few easy rides in.

Easy!! Madness! by the time we got out there the swell had built up to around 7ft with the entire wave dumping at once. Not a chance of riding the face of the wave, just a two second pick up and then you had to leg it ahead of the maelstrom back to the safety of the beach. Scary stuff.

Still it calmed down as the tide came in and we got a few rides. i've finally started to suss the art of being able to turn along the wave right from pick-up so was well stoked!

Toys Used: